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Photography and Fashion Since the 1990s [Nakako Hayashi 2020]


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Catalog to accompany exhibition supervised (curated?) by japanese fashion editor, journalist, and publisher nakako hayashi at the tokyo photographic art museum in 2020, taking as its subject "photography and fashion since the 1990s". The exhibition (and by extension the book) reflects on the role of photography (and in particular, the magazine) in shaping and disseminating fashion in the 1990s, and the ways its role has changed (diminished?) in the periods since. Contains samples of works identified by Hayashi as important or illustrative (by anders edström, elein fleiss, kyoji takashi, PUGMENT, takashi homma, and yukinori maeda), and including spreads from and cover designs of seminal magazines (purple, purple journal, nakako hayashi's own, more recent here and there). Essays by nakako hayashi and takahiro ito (curator of the tokyo photographic art museum) both interesting.

English and japanese, hardcover, 115 pages
26.3 x 18.5 cm
Published by tokyo photographic art museum, tokyo


From the exhibition statement: "as the world of fashion has evolved, photography has played a pivotal part in conveying the appeal of garments by fashion designers. At times, images created by photography have appealed more than the garments themselves, and such iconic imagery has symbolized the age.

The 1990s saw the emergence of photographers who went beyond the conventional framework for communicating the appeal of fashion items to create images that appeal to people. Moreover, fashion magazines appeared that took an independent stance in transmitting information. Images created from new points of view influenced people’s thinking and lifestyles. Those images have been referred to repeatedly by subsequent generations.

Since the first decade of the twenty-first century, the relationship between photography and fashion has undergone even more changes. In the past, news about the latest fashion shows and exhibitions was transmitted through a limited group of intermediaries: newspaper and magazine editors and writers, for example. In recent years, however, that information has reached the hands of the general public, without a time lag, via SNS platforms such as Twitter and Instagram.

Moreover, the people on the receiving end of this information are not merely taking it in: they send out their own information, in many forms, of which the tagged selfie is a classic example.

For this exhibition, we have welcomed as its supervisor Nakako Hayashi, who has observed the worlds of fashion and the arts as a long-term editor of the culture magazine Hanatsubaki. Through works by artists in Japan and abroad, the exhibition attempts to explore the relationship between photography and fashion. It displays, in addition to photographs, rare fashion magazines that became major turning points in their time and is accompanied for an engaging look at photography and fashion from many angles."